Talking Design with Rusty: The History and Functionality of Tails

talking-design-with-rusty-presiendorfer-copy

I call the back third of a board the business end. Rocker, fins, foil, and outline curve all work in harmony, ideally, to provide the rider with a desired feel.

Questions about tail shape seem to get asked most frequently. Understandably so, because in the last decade or so there has been a proliferation of "new" tail shapes. Tails are easy to separate and the visual differences are easy to identify.

To understand how tail shapes have evolved, I'll offer a little history. I don't profess to be a historian, but here is a little overview. At some point in time, thousands of years ago fishermen started standing up on their small hulls on the way in through the surf. Canoe? Kayak? Reed hull?

It's almost like speculating if there is life on other planets but it's safe to say that there were quite a few early fishing communities around the globe that were comfortable going out through surf and coming back in. Whimsical thought, children would play in the surf with small flat pieces of wood and some would stand on them.

A few hundred years ago, prone craft got supersized so adults could participate in the fun. Someone flew at a higher altitude and realized that the outline of a boat made sense but they didn't need all the volume. Once propelled by a wave's energy, volume becomes less relevant and early board shapers became intrigued with outline shape.

Eventually, the penny dropped and the importance of the planning aspect of a craft built specifically for wave riding clicked in and surface area became more important than volume -- a craft in motion.

How does a slab of indigenous wood (or flotsam from shipwreck for that matter) become a wave riding craft? If you look at the most primitive of shapes from early wave riding cultures you'll see that the shaper of the period has taken a rectangular plank and rounded the nose off a bit. As boards evolved, the rectangles became trapezoids of sorts: rounded nose, wide point was quite far forward. The board gradually tapered, on some designs almost imperceptible, to the tail section. Tails were wide and square with slightly rounded corners.

A designer's inner dialogue boils down to striking a balance between planning surface (area, lift) and control. Sometime in the early 1930s designers began cutting away area between the corners. Possibly to make it easier for the prone paddler to kick while still maintaining rail length for lift and control. These inverted arc tails may have been the precursor to a "fish" tail.

Tom Blake is credited with putting the first fin on a surfboard in 1935 to facilitate steering and is said to have built a two fin board in 1943. Simmons, quite possibly unaware of Blake's two fin board, built some two fin boards in 1948. Simmons built bigger, wide back, rounded square twins and a few shorter ones in the 50's. Tom Blake reshaped a Simmons square tail into a split tail, "The Makaha Wedge" around 1954.

266An early Tom Blake design. Photo: Tom Blake\Surfing Heritage Foundation

This was most likely the inspiration for the Mirandons to build a single fin with a fairly wide split in 1967 called the Super Board and followed it with the Twin Pin: a double pin tail twin fin, in 1968. Arguably, the Twin Pin was the inspiration for Steve Lis to incorporate the fish tail and two fins into his very short kneeboards. Richard Kenvin has been working on a project, Hydrodynamica, that weaves all this rich history together.

Traditional fish have roughly a 10 to 12 inch split. Area and volume is removed between the corners. Maximizing rail length, enhances drive, adds traction, and releases quick. The further apart the corners, the less continuity there is in rail transition. The notion was to have a long, straight rail on a very short, wide board. Typically, the wider the gap, the deeper the cut. A round pin template can be used for the inside part of the curve so a deep cut doesn't lose too much area and the inverted pintails don't get too pointy. The deeper cut also allows the individual tail, the one in the water on a turn, to flex more readily.

Rewind just a bit: in the 1950s, with materials changing, boards becoming lighter, fins accepted and evolving, outline shapes and tails shapes were experimented with as well.

In 1954, Dale Velzy, bored with the same old outlines, used his nose template for the tail. This pulled the wide point well behind center and, while it may not have been the first round tail, "The Pig" popularized hips pulled back, and very curvy tails; rounded squash, round tails, and round pins. More curve equals tighter arcs and surfers found themselves accelerating out of turns. The era of angled takeoffs and straight line trimming was transitioning into the early days of modern, maneuver-based, performance surfing.

Velzy's "Bump" (1956/1957) featured an exaggerated hip which was arguably the precursor to the wing, or sting. In 1960, Velzy had a go with some ski inspired outlines, inverted parabolic midsections, and a version with an inverted midsection, with the wide point 2/3rds back, pulling into an almost nippled pin tail which he dubbed "The Stinger". Then in 1963, Velzy designed the Banjo/422 that featured possibly the first modern version of a step down type wing about 2/3rds back.

So this gets us into a period where experimentation with outline curves, hips, and tails is accelerating. With the short board revolution, single fins (and straighter tail rockers) arguably impacted tail widths and shapes. With shorter rail-lines, designers were searching for ways to build speed and drive back into the boards and still keep them from spinning out.

Tail widths and shapes in the late 1960s and up until the inception of the modern three fin were somewhat constrained by the limitations of a single fin.

With the Mirandons and Lis resurrecting interest in two fin boards, tail widths expanded. Also, in 1970 Hobie and Bing both marketed wide square tail twin fins. These incorporated totally different approach with fins.

In 1971, Brewer, Reno, McTavish and others start experimenting with three fins. These early versions were primarily two plus one setups: a single fin with small side-bites glassed on the rails, roughly about mid-base to the main fin. This allowed for a shorter main fin and wider tail blocks and experimentation with wider, "closed tail" designs, ie. squash tails and diamond tails. That same year Gary Goodrum won the US Surfing Championship at Huntington Beach riding a three fin.

The mid-1970s saw a lot of split tail design incorporated for small wave designs. While pin tails, and diamonds were left for larger surf. The fish, swallow, dove tail, allowed for wider tails on singles fin boards. Width, with the area removed between the corners, provided drive and hold with a quick release on tails. A more modern, split tail twin fin moved into dominance in the late-1970s.

In 1981, the modern three fin changed everything. Hot dog boards with wide squash tails took over. Squash tails maintain dominance for most small/medium wave designs. By mid-1980s more roundtail three fin boards were working their way into the mix.

Today, what I find fascinating is, most of the short, "performance" boards that I build, and other designers boards that I look at, have remarkably consistent width numbers the last 18" of the board. Width at 6", 12" and 18" up from the tail are very similar between shapers and designs for boards that are ridden in everyday conditions.

A few years ago someone came to me with a concept board that would allow the owner to change out the tail of the board. The width at approximately 18" up from the tail is around 16 ½" so the designer had interchangeable tail sections that joined the board at the 16 ½" width mark, wherever it fell, and allowed the owner to put in slightly shorter or longer and different tail shapes. He had some working prototypes and the thinking was sound. Depending on conditions or mood of the rider, the board could be modified to perform accordingly.

All things being equal here's kind of a basic breakdown on tail differences:

square

Square: Probably the grandfather of all tails, maximizes rail length and area in the last foot or so of the board. It adds stability, drive, more angular turns, quicker release, and less continuity in rail-to-rail transitions. They are used by some shapers as a small wave design and were used by some shapers in early big wave designs -- gun pioneers like Pat Curren used small square tails on guns.

fish

Fish Tail, Swallow Tail, Dove Tail, Split Tail: A square tail with area removed between the corners, fish is a catchall name. Split tail is a name that doesn't initiate semantics debates. Fish used to be a wide (10" to 12") split with a fairly deep cut about half the width number. Quite often, shapers will use a round pin template to create the inner curve. Swallow was a used on more of a standard hotdog type board with a 5" to 7" split. The depth was an inch, give or take and the inside cut had curve. A Dove tail was similar width and a little shallower depth with a straight inner line. Width, depth of cut, and area (fullness of curve) of the inverted pins can be used to achieve different riding qualities.

An interesting sidebar on splits with deeper cuts is they promote flex. Plenty of shapers over the last few decades have experimented with thinning out the pins to the point where they are virtually just fiberglass.

Baby swallows or baby fish tail refers to a narrower tail on a gun with a split that maybe as small as 3" or 4".

squash

Squash or Rounded Square: Here's where we start getting into semantics and hair splitting on the names. Maybe a squash tail is a round pin someone dropped and a rounded square is a square that had its corners sanded off. Basically, they are both shaped by rounding off the corners of a squaretail. In addition to the usual checkpoints, I track numbers 1" up from the tail and 6" up from the end of the board. An average squash tail is about 10 ½ wide 6" up. The 1" number reflects how much curve there is because it's difficult to measure the end of the board unless it has distinct corners, like a fish tail or a square. An average squash is somewhere in the 5 ½" to 6 ½" wide at 1" up.

This is probably the most common small/medium wave tail shape. It offers a nice blend of area and curve. It became the go-to tail shape when three fins took over the world in the early 1980s. There were wide squash tails built early in the shortboard era. The problem with wide tails on single fins was that the wider the tail (block) the deeper the fin needed to be. The deeper the fin, the more the frontal drag. With three fins, it really enabled designers to go wider and shorter, moving area aft because of the hold and drive three fins brought to the game. The tail shape provides lift, support, and drive.
The balance of release and smoothness or continuity depends on how rounded the corners are.

diamond

Diamond Tails: A blend of round pin and squash with the corners moved forward a bit maintaining area, shortening the rail, finishing with a subtle point, and a very clean exit for a board with some tail vee. Diamonds were used quite a bit in the early 1970s on a wide range of boards all the way up the ladder. A nice blend of aesthetically pleasing yet, still very functional.

bat

Bat Tails: Take a squash or a diamond and invert the last inch of the tail. I did 'em in the early 1980s. They are all the rage for quads now. The area removed and little corners add some bite and help give the boards without a rear fin in the middle a little extra drive.

round

Round Tails: Uber-smooth turns. Make a clay model of a hollow wave, use a wire to slice it along the speed line in the barrel, and the cross section will probably look something like this. Or Google conic sections. This tail is a clean, natural curve that fits the pocket. It's a great tail for a performance shortboard, good in head-high to double-overhead waves. Also, a good option for next one-up type shapes.

thumb

Thumb Tails: Look like the tip of your thumb -- a blunted round tail with little less curve between front and back fins. Area in last few inches can vary compared to a roundtail; a little less than a squash tail. It's an excellent all around tail shape with the smooth transitional qualities of a round tail and a little bit of release that you might feel in a squash. Combined with a slight hip or subtle bump, it makes an excellent tail for everyday conditions and into the good stuff. Probably the second most popular tail, behind the squash, for performance shortboards.

roundpin

Round Pins: Are typically used on longer boards for bigger waves. As the board gets longer, the curves get stretched out, it becomes a bit of a juggling act for the designer to maintain a balance of curve and area.

A tail that is too narrow sits too deep in the water, compromising the board by creating unnecessary drag. A tail too wide creates the opposite problem.

Once again, remember that rocker, fins and foil all come into play as well.

With 1970s style single fins, the wide points up, long rail lines in the back, and pinny pintails (low area) were necessary to keep the tail in the water in bigger surf. Tri-fins allowed designers to go a little wider and use more rocker because of the hold and drive created by the three fin setup.

With quads, it opens more doors.

arc

Arc, Half Moon: I seem to do a lot of tow boards with this tail as well as some guns. Back to maximizing rail length, maintaining some width, and removing some area behind the fins.

toad

Toad Tail: This is when the line starts to blur on "is it a wing or a tail?"

I worked with Will Jobson on Twinzers in the early 1990s. The Twinzer was a not really a four fin but a twin fin with little fins in front of the main fins that help feed the water onto the main fins to help them work more efficiently. Martin Potter charged to his world title riding a lot of these (Will's and Glenn Minami) designs. Will had a tail that looked similar to this but with the corners pushed even closer to the end of the board. He also had concaves running out through the corners. All these design elements he combined to make his visionary fin setup fly. The wings, or corners, step down the width, create release and hold. They're good for four fin boards. I've made three fin boards with this tail that have had great reviews.

asymetrical

Asymmetrical: Who says tails have to be symmetrical? My first board was an Ekstrom asymmetrical. I've built a few over the years and had a couple good riders swear by them. I made myself one last year and had a blast on it. Swallow wing on the frontside, roundtail on the backhand. Drive and release toe side, shorter, power arcs heelside.

In the mid-1970s, I shaped myself two swallow tails, identical in every way (as best I could do handshaping). When they were both finished, I sanded some of the curve out of the tail between the corner and the 12" mark. Some area removed, but more noticeable, a subtle hip or break in the curve. Any difference in the ride? Night and day. The one with the break in the curve won, hands down.

There were days back then when I was surfing solid winter Blacks on guns with the cleanest, smoothest curves I could make, and sometimes found myself wondering if an outline could be too clean. Beautiful, but vanilla.

Some things to remember:

Corners and aberrations break the line.

Smooth curves beget smooth turns.

Area affects lift and resistance.

Once again, it's the whole package; rocker, fins, foil, and entire outline curve that dictate the overall feel of the board. Tails are embellishments.

No right or wrong. Whatever flavor you are after, there's more choices than ever.

Happy Surfing.
R.

Photos: Brody

Talking Design with Rusty: The Secret Behind Displacement and Big-Guy Shortboards

Hayes Domler Asks:
"I've been surfing for over 30 years and have gone from shortboards to longboards and back to shorter boards. I'm 6'0, 200lbs. I'd love to get a big thruster that would work in quality surf and would probably work in average surf, too. Can you help me?"

Rusty, being a big guy himself, tackles the question head on:

What's considered big for the non-surfing man? Let's say 200 pounds and up. So what's average for a surfer? Well, for argument's sake, let's say 150 to 170 pounds. But 180 is starting to tip the scale. Any pro surfer 190lbs is considered big -- Jordy Smith, Jay Davies, Pancho Sullivan, Sunny Garcia, Luke Egan -- while 200lbs is considered really big. Simon Anderson, a.k.a. The Gentle Giant, surfed in competitions at 6'3" and 210 pounds. There are a lot of very fit surfers who are, simply put, bigger than average.

simon1 Thruster-inventor and former World #3 Simon Anderson was a big dude, which never slowed him down, especially at Sunset. Photo: Dan Merkel/A-Frame

At 200 pounds, a young, fit guy surfing in good waves can probably make 6'2"x18.5"x2.3" work for him. Yet, 6'3"x18.75"x2.4" is probably a little more practical.

Here are some other examples. A retired pro surfer in his mid 30s, standing at 6'3" and 230 pounds would probably ride a 6'5"x19.5"x 2.5". But when he was in competitive form, he probably would've weighed 200 pounds and rode a 6'3"x18.65"x 2.3".

Or take a 6'5", 230-pound, professional athlete in his early 20s who is an experienced surfer. His board would be 6'6" 19.75 by 2.6. Meanwhile, a 6'7" 230-pound retired NBA player in his early 40s would need a 6'10" 21 by 2.8-inch board as an experienced surfer.

Then factor in age, fitness level and venue, and the numbers change.

A lot of guys fall into the "vanity versus reality" funk -- if you're working too hard and not enjoying yourself on the same board or dimensions that served you well a few years ago, go a little bigger. If fun becomes work, you're only hindering yourself. Go a little longer, wider, thicker and you will increase your wave count and stoke. You'll probably surf more often and the fun and fitness will be restored.

People often ask whether there's a formula for volume. Here's an astute observation from one of the readers of our previous blog:

Tom G. 05/19/2009 04:25 PM
"Could you help bring back the volume measurements of surfboards? Maybe even weigh the boards too...(~5-10% difference). It could improve consumer confidence (for the average guy) in avoiding the worst purchase for most surfers -- a sinker that floats you at your neck! For example, some people think you should surf something no less than 35% of your volume. So if I weigh 77 kilos (170 lbs) I should surf a board that displaces 27 kilos of water (27 liters). Would this help the movement?"

Jamie O'Brien weighs in at about 180 pounds and typically his go-to board is 6'2"x18.5"x2.27" inches and displaces a volume of approximately 27.5 liters (or about 77 beers, as one CAD program conveniently calculates.) I've made him shorter, wider boards and I do use the volume tool on the software as a cross check.

jamie
Jamie O'Brien putting his edge to the test at Teahupoo. Photo: Sean Collins

Nate Yeomans weighs about 170 pounds, though he rides similar dimensions with slightly leaner rails. So I would say you are on the right track, Tom.

Ability level and venue also must be taken into consideration, and in no way is it meant to be disrespectful, but these are realistic factors when finding the right board for you.

Alex from Sweden 05/20/2009 02:43 AM
"I'm 6'3" and about 220 pounds with wintersuit and all. Even worse is that I surf mostly in the Baltic Sea that is cold and has much less salt, meaning less buoyancy. I don't fancy longboards or funshapes because I want a stable board that can carve and snap but still handle less buoyant water. My question -- what kind of board, and especially size, do you think would suit me?"

Venue is always a factor. Again, another spot-on comment, this one about salinity and buoyancy. The best way to add volume is to add width. This will increase stability but the trade-off is a reduction in reaction time. Wide boards aren't necessarily any slower than narrower boards in terms of how fast they are capable of traveling down the line but width directly affects the quickness of a board with regards to rail-to-rail transition.

Simply put, for bigger surfers: width is your friend. You don't have the same quick twitch muscle speed as your smaller brethren. You have more power. Design you board accordingly. Head high is all relative. Adding thickness will add buoyancy -- the trade off is a decrease in flex and sensitivity. And while adding length may allow you to catch the wave a little earlier, the trade off is possibly compromising how the board fits in the curve of the wave and increased arc length on turns.

A big part of a shaper's job is finding a good balance between all these variables.

Your board should somewhat reflect your build. Shorter, stockier surfers should probably consider adding the extra volume they need with a little extra thickness. Taller, leaner surfers may be better served by going a little longer, and wider. The extra width is important to maintain outline curve. For every two inches of change in length (+/-) approximately an eighth of an inch (+/-) will keep the curve somewhat similar.

Foot size also comes into play. Sasquatch doesn't want his toes hanging over the rails and he can probably handle more width because of the leverage he can deliver with his big feet.

pancho_klein_001
Pancho Sullivan - big guy board, big-guy carve. Photo: Jeremiah Klein

It's difficult to generalize and that's why I think it's so important for anyone who wants to maximize his or her surfing to work with an experienced shaper on customized equipment. Once again, this isn't so much about old-guy or fat-guy boards, but really trying to throw out some practical solutions for the surfer who's bigger than average and frustrated with trying to find a happy middle ground between challenge and reward.Average sized surfers are generally happy with fins that have a base and height of around 4.5 inches and a flex pattern that incorporates a somewhat softer tip. Bigger surfers should be looking at fins in the 4.65 to 4.75 range, base and height. Also, avoid softer fins. Plastics are a no-no. Some RTM fins are good. Carbon tends to be too rigid. Nothing beats a well-foiled, all-fiberglass fin. In smaller surf you can sub in a set of five-inch (give or take 1/8") front fins for more lift and drive and drop in a smaller rear fin to free up your tail.

Quads? I'm a big advocate, especially for larger surfers in everyday conditions.

As far as materials and construction go, bigger guys have more to gain from EPS/Epoxy. With lighter, quicker surfers, I usually adjust the volume down to compensate for the increased buoyancy. While bigger or more "experienced" (a.k.a. older) surfers usually choose to enjoy the additional paddle power.

There are so many variables to factor in, but here's a stab at a super basic spreadsheet:

#1: A board with typical shortboard proportions. (From a distance, under a bigger surfer's arm or on a wave, it would be difficult to tell how long the board really is.)

A 3-inch difference between nose and tail
Nose 11 to 12 inches
Tail 14 to 15 inches
Wide-point an inch or two back
More of a "back foot" design

Assuming average ability, average surf condition and that the surfer is reasonably fit, surfing three-plus times a week.

20 to 30 years old:
200lbs 6'6" 19.5 by 2.5
225lbs 6'9" 20.0 by 2.65
250lbs 7'0" 20.5 by 2.85

30 to 40:
200lbs 6'9" 20.25 by 2.7
225lbs 7'0" 20.75 by 2.85
250lbs 7'3" 21.25 by 3.0

40 to 50:
200lbs 7'0" 20.5 by 2.75
225lbs 7'3" 21.0 by 2.9
250lbs 7'6" 21.5 by 3.0+

50 to 60:
200lbs 7'3" 21.25 by 2.9
225lbs 7'6" 21.75 by 3.0
250lbs 7'9" 22.0 by 3.15+

#2: A little more balanced, user-friendly shape

A 1.5-inch difference between nose and tail
Nose 13 to 14 inches
Tail 14.5 to 15.5 inches
Wide point moves closer to center

Assuming average ability, average surf and a reasonably fit guy, surfing one to two times a week.

20 to 30 years old:
200lbs 6'6" 20.5 by 2.65
225lbs 6'9" 21.0 by 2.8
250lbs 7'0" 21.5 by 3.0

30 to 40:
200lbs 6'9" 21.25 by 2.75
225lbs 7'0" 21.75 by 3.0
250lbs 7'3" 22.25 by 3.1

40 to 50:
200lbs 7'0" 21.5 by 2.85
225lbs 7'3" 22.0 by 3.0
250lbs 7'6" 22.5 by 3.15+

50 to 60:
200lbs 7'3" 22.25 by 3.0
225lbs 7'6" 22.75 by 3.125
250lbs 7'9" 23.0 by 3.25+

There are many other options in design that will allow you to go shorter if you choose. Boards that are wider in the nose and tail with more relaxed rockers work for certain types of waves. Or go longer for that matter. It's all about the waves you surf and the lines you want to draw.

Form follows fun.

Check out Rusty's Blog on Surfline.com and Keep Those Questions Coming!