Rusty

Hayes Domler Asks:
“I’ve been surfing for over 30 years and have gone from shortboards to longboards and back to shorter boards. I’m 6′0, 200lbs. I’d love to get a big thruster that would work in quality surf and would probably work in average surf, too. Can you help me?”

Rusty, being a big guy himself, tackles the question head on:

What’s considered big for the non-surfing man? Let’s say 200 pounds and up. So what’s average for a surfer? Well, for argument’s sake, let’s say 150 to 170 pounds. But 180 is starting to tip the scale. Any pro surfer 190lbs is considered big — Jordy Smith, Jay Davies, Pancho Sullivan, Sunny Garcia, Luke Egan — while 200lbs is considered really big. Simon Anderson, a.k.a. The Gentle Giant, surfed in competitions at 6′3″ and 210 pounds. There are a lot of very fit surfers who are, simply put, bigger than average.

Thruster-inventor and former World #3 Simon Anderson was a big dude, which never slowed him down, especially at Sunset. Photo: Dan Merkel/A-Frame

At 200 pounds, a young, fit guy surfing in good waves can probably make 6′2″x18.5″x2.3″ work for him. Yet, 6′3″x18.75″x2.4″ is probably a little more practical.

Here are some other examples. A retired pro surfer in his mid 30s, standing at 6′3″ and 230 pounds would probably ride a 6′5″x19.5″x 2.5″. But when he was in competitive form, he probably would’ve weighed 200 pounds and rode a 6′3″x18.65″x 2.3″.

Or take a 6′5″, 230-pound, professional athlete in his early 20s who is an experienced surfer. His board would be 6′6″ 19.75 by 2.6. Meanwhile, a 6′7″ 230-pound retired NBA player in his early 40s would need a 6′10″ 21 by 2.8-inch board as an experienced surfer.

Then factor in age, fitness level and venue, and the numbers change.

A lot of guys fall into the “vanity versus reality” funk — if you’re working too hard and not enjoying yourself on the same board or dimensions that served you well a few years ago, go a little bigger. If fun becomes work, you’re only hindering yourself. Go a little longer, wider, thicker and you will increase your wave count and stoke. You’ll probably surf more often and the fun and fitness will be restored.

People often ask whether there’s a formula for volume. Here’s an astute observation from one of the readers of our previous blog:

Tom G. 05/19/2009 04:25 PM
“Could you help bring back the volume measurements of surfboards? Maybe even weigh the boards too…(~5-10% difference). It could improve consumer confidence (for the average guy) in avoiding the worst purchase for most surfers — a sinker that floats you at your neck! For example, some people think you should surf something no less than 35% of your volume. So if I weigh 77 kilos (170 lbs) I should surf a board that displaces 27 kilos of water (27 liters). Would this help the movement?”

Jamie O’Brien weighs in at about 180 pounds and typically his go-to board is 6′2″x18.5″x2.27″ inches and displaces a volume of approximately 27.5 liters (or about 77 beers, as one CAD program conveniently calculates.) I’ve made him shorter, wider boards and I do use the volume tool on the software as a cross check.

Jamie O’Brien putting his edge to the test at Teahupoo. Photo: Sean Collins

Nate Yeomans weighs about 170 pounds, though he rides similar dimensions with slightly leaner rails. So I would say you are on the right track, Tom.

Ability level and venue also must be taken into consideration, and in no way is it meant to be disrespectful, but these are realistic factors when finding the right board for you.

Alex from Sweden 05/20/2009 02:43 AM
“I’m 6′3″ and about 220 pounds with wintersuit and all. Even worse is that I surf mostly in the Baltic Sea that is cold and has much less salt, meaning less buoyancy. I don’t fancy longboards or funshapes because I want a stable board that can carve and snap but still handle less buoyant water. My question — what kind of board, and especially size, do you think would suit me?”

Venue is always a factor. Again, another spot-on comment, this one about salinity and buoyancy. The best way to add volume is to add width. This will increase stability but the trade-off is a reduction in reaction time. Wide boards aren’t necessarily any slower than narrower boards in terms of how fast they are capable of traveling down the line but width directly affects the quickness of a board with regards to rail-to-rail transition.

Simply put, for bigger surfers: width is your friend. You don’t have the same quick twitch muscle speed as your smaller brethren. You have more power. Design you board accordingly. Head high is all relative. Adding thickness will add buoyancy — the trade off is a decrease in flex and sensitivity. And while adding length may allow you to catch the wave a little earlier, the trade off is possibly compromising how the board fits in the curve of the wave and increased arc length on turns.

A big part of a shaper’s job is finding a good balance between all these variables.

Your board should somewhat reflect your build. Shorter, stockier surfers should probably consider adding the extra volume they need with a little extra thickness. Taller, leaner surfers may be better served by going a little longer, and wider. The extra width is important to maintain outline curve. For every two inches of change in length (+/-) approximately an eighth of an inch (+/-) will keep the curve somewhat similar.

Foot size also comes into play. Sasquatch doesn’t want his toes hanging over the rails and he can probably handle more width because of the leverage he can deliver with his big feet.

Pancho Sullivan - big guy board, big-guy carve. Photo: Jeremiah Klein

It’s difficult to generalize and that’s why I think it’s so important for anyone who wants to maximize his or her surfing to work with an experienced shaper on customized equipment. Once again, this isn’t so much about old-guy or fat-guy boards, but really trying to throw out some practical solutions for the surfer who’s bigger than average and frustrated with trying to find a happy middle ground between challenge and reward.Average sized surfers are generally happy with fins that have a base and height of around 4.5 inches and a flex pattern that incorporates a somewhat softer tip. Bigger surfers should be looking at fins in the 4.65 to 4.75 range, base and height. Also, avoid softer fins. Plastics are a no-no. Some RTM fins are good. Carbon tends to be too rigid. Nothing beats a well-foiled, all-fiberglass fin. In smaller surf you can sub in a set of five-inch (give or take 1/8″) front fins for more lift and drive and drop in a smaller rear fin to free up your tail.

Quads? I’m a big advocate, especially for larger surfers in everyday conditions.

As far as materials and construction go, bigger guys have more to gain from EPS/Epoxy. With lighter, quicker surfers, I usually adjust the volume down to compensate for the increased buoyancy. While bigger or more “experienced” (a.k.a. older) surfers usually choose to enjoy the additional paddle power.

There are so many variables to factor in, but here’s a stab at a super basic spreadsheet:

#1: A board with typical shortboard proportions. (From a distance, under a bigger surfer’s arm or on a wave, it would be difficult to tell how long the board really is.)

A 3-inch difference between nose and tail
Nose 11 to 12 inches
Tail 14 to 15 inches
Wide-point an inch or two back
More of a “back foot” design

Assuming average ability, average surf condition and that the surfer is reasonably fit, surfing three-plus times a week.

20 to 30 years old:
200lbs 6′6″ 19.5 by 2.5
225lbs 6′9″ 20.0 by 2.65
250lbs 7′0″ 20.5 by 2.85

30 to 40:
200lbs 6′9″ 20.25 by 2.7
225lbs 7′0″ 20.75 by 2.85
250lbs 7′3″ 21.25 by 3.0

40 to 50:
200lbs 7′0″ 20.5 by 2.75
225lbs 7′3″ 21.0 by 2.9
250lbs 7′6″ 21.5 by 3.0+

50 to 60:
200lbs 7′3″ 21.25 by 2.9
225lbs 7′6″ 21.75 by 3.0
250lbs 7′9″ 22.0 by 3.15+

#2: A little more balanced, user-friendly shape

A 1.5-inch difference between nose and tail
Nose 13 to 14 inches
Tail 14.5 to 15.5 inches
Wide point moves closer to center

Assuming average ability, average surf and a reasonably fit guy, surfing one to two times a week.

20 to 30 years old:
200lbs 6′6″ 20.5 by 2.65
225lbs 6′9″ 21.0 by 2.8
250lbs 7′0″ 21.5 by 3.0

30 to 40:
200lbs 6′9″ 21.25 by 2.75
225lbs 7′0″ 21.75 by 3.0
250lbs 7′3″ 22.25 by 3.1

40 to 50:
200lbs 7′0″ 21.5 by 2.85
225lbs 7′3″ 22.0 by 3.0
250lbs 7′6″ 22.5 by 3.15+

50 to 60:
200lbs 7′3″ 22.25 by 3.0
225lbs 7′6″ 22.75 by 3.125
250lbs 7′9″ 23.0 by 3.25+

There are many other options in design that will allow you to go shorter if you choose. Boards that are wider in the nose and tail with more relaxed rockers work for certain types of waves. Or go longer for that matter. It’s all about the waves you surf and the lines you want to draw.

Form follows fun.

Check out Rusty’s Blog on Surfline.com and Keep Those Questions Coming!

Bio
Shift your Redline into overdrive with our unique parabolic stringer construction. This board is tuned up for more speed, drive and return on rail surfing.

Specs
The parabolic stringers move the center point of flex off the stringer, allowing for both rails to torque independently and ultimately create a board that loads harder off the bottom and springs faster into action.

Popular Dimensions:
5′8″ x 17 3/4″ x 2″

5′10″ x 18 1/8″ x 2 1/16″

6′0″ x 18 3/16″ x 2 1/8″

6′1″ x 18 1/4″ x 2 1/4″

6′2″ x 18 1/2″ x 2 3/8″

*Custom dimensions always available*

“Strictly parabolic boards for me from now on… They load up so much more for cutbacks and bottom turns, it is almost like a spring board when your coming out of turns. It is definitely a different feel than a straight stringer. Everyone should try one!”
-Rick Takahashi

Rusty has partnered with Surfline to bring you a yellow pages for all of your gear needs! Search by category or company to find the latest and greatest surfing gear.

Click Here to Have a Look at the Gear Directory

No swells? No worries… come down to the Rusty Boardhouse and get your hands on a Rusty stand up paddle board. Rent a paddle board for only $25 for two hours!

Rusty Boardhouse
2170 Avenida De La Playa
La Jolla, CA 92037

See you in the water!

Rusty Team ride Nate Yeomans placed a 3rd this week at the Nike 6.0 6 star Prime held down at lower trestles. Nates path of destruction took down high profile Wct surfers such as Dane Reynolds, Travis Logie, Rob Machado and CJ Hobgood. Yeomans collected $5000 in prize money and now is sitting in 5th place on the WQS. We are super pummped on Nates performance this week and look foward to more of his accomplishments. Yeahhhhh Nate congrats!!!!!!!yewww

As a young, frothing grom, I ordered my first custom board at the age of 14 and I spent countless hours dreaming the board up…

Where would I ride it?  What dimensions would I order? Which shaper would I have shape it? What artwork would I add?  I obsessed over minute details and waited in anticipation as my board made the rounds from the shaping bay to the sanding room and everywhere in between.  What a rewarding feeling to get that board under my feet!  Nothing beats a board that was shaped entirely custom for me…

I just ordered a new board last week (ten years after my first custom order) and, I must admit, the frothing grom has emerged once again!  I have doodled on every piece of scratch paper I can get my hands on to come up with a creative airbrush and I have a hard time falling asleep at night because my new board to be is surfing through my mind.

If you want to conjure yourself up a custom new dream board there are several ways to place your order:

1)  Order at your local surf shop-  Custom Rusty Surfboards can be ordered at Rusty Board House, Rusty Del Mar, or any authorized Rusty Surfboard dealer across the Nation.

2) Call the factory- Our expert staff will help you pick out the perfect custom craft for your size, desires, abilities, and destinations.

3) Schedule an appointment with a shaper- call the factory to set up a time and come in to speak with one of our legendary shapers one on one.

4) Online- check out our board line up and download a PDF version of our order form (at the bottom of any surfboard page), fill it out, and fax it into the factory.

RUSTY SURFBOARDS FACTORY

PHONE: (858)578-0414

FAX: (858)578-0603

Photo and Text: Brody

Speed and maneuverability are what this board is about.  With it’s narrower nose and hard wing swallow tail, the HUSTLER is the next step after a fish and just might be the missing link in your quiver…

The combination of the venturi bottom and the quad fin set-up, accompanied with enhanced volume, give this board contemporary capabilities in most wave conditions you encounter…

Click HERE to find out more!

Click to go to the DWART page and see more photos…

THE “DWART” WAS CREATED TO BE THE BOARD FOR 90% OF THE WAVES WE SURF. IT’S BEEN SUCCESSFULLY SURFED FROM 1’ -10’ AND THIS THING RIPS!

Knee High to Well Over Head

RECOMMENDED SIZES

5’4” X 20” X 2.5”

5’6” X 20.25” X 2.56”

5’8” X 20.5” X 2.62”

5’10” X 20.75” X 2.7”

6’0” X 21.25” X 2.87”

6’2” X 21.5” X 2.87”

*The DWART can be ordered with any dimensions*

CHECK OUT THE OTHER NEW RUSTY SURFBOARD MODEL-THE HUSTLER!

As part of our Ask the Expert department, I recently had the chance to talk with the legendary Rusty Preisendorfer about ordering a custom board. Mr. Preisendorfer, always an endless well of surfboard knowledge, left me with twice the amount of solid material that we had room to print in the magazine. Thankfully, we have the internet! So here’s the extended version. Enjoy and order away.

Also, if you think of any more tips, post them in the comments section below…

Order a custom board.

1. Provide basic information: your weight, height, age, foot size (believe it or not this a real consideration), and your experience level (be honest and realistic)?

2. How often do you surf? Where do you surf? What is your style? Give your shaper some background on what you’ve been riding, your last few boards—things you liked and didn’t like. Go back a few boards if you have the history.

3. Where do you want to take your surfing (figuratively)? Where do you want to take this board (literally)? Is this board for a trip? If so, it’s always good if your shaper has first hand experience with your intended destination, or at least has some history with surfers that have taken his/ her designs there and has had feedback to work of off.

4. If you’re getting a board for a specific purpose, commit to it. I have people that come to me and say, “I’m going to Indo, or whatever, I want a board geared for those types of waves but I’d really like to be able to ride it when I get back (to my cold, marginal, everyday surf at home).” Get a board that will maximize your travel experience and if financial considerations dictate, sell it when you get back.

5. Are you still growing? When ordering a new board I find a lot of times a younger surfer tends to err on the small side of things. If you are still growing, be open to your shapers recommendations on length, width, and thickness. A slightly bigger board may take a little adjustment but more often than not I find the customer will grow into the board and get more enjoyment out of their surfing.

6. Ironically, some surfers that are hitting their late 20s/ early 30s still try to hang on to the past and tend to order under volume as well. If you are experiencing life changes such as work, metabolism shift, gaining a few pounds, etc, a slight bump in board length and volume will probably bump up your wave count with less effort. That alone will make it a lot more fun. You’ll probably end up surfing more and those 10 pounds will melt away.

7. Talk to your shaper. If it’s your first visit to “The Factory” be respectful of his time. 15 or 20 minutes should be enough to cover most of it. If you order a board through a shop it’s important to convey as much information about you and your needs as possible. Put it in writing and ask that a hard copy or email make it to the shaper with the shop’s order form so nothing is omitted or lost in translation. Put your personal contact info, email, phone, down on the order so if the shaper has questions, they can reach you. I do this from time to time on shop orders. A 5 or 10-minute phone conversation can make a world of difference.

8. Don’t go overboard. From time to time, I get customers that are very specific and have their next board mapped out in detail. While it’s good to try and know your numbers, shaping still has an art element. Be flexible and trust your shaper to put the curves together based on his experience.

9. Don’t ask for a deal. In fact, if you are working directly with someone, when you pick up your board, consider giving your shaper some additional token of your appreciation. People automatically tip a waiter/waitress they don’t know and may never see again. Why not take care of the person capable of bringing you great surf happiness? This will go a long way towards expediting future boards.

10. Follow up with honest feedback and make any criticism constructive. Sometimes something as simple as changing your fins can make a significant improvement in performance. No matter how long a shaper has been doing his craft, a pat on the back always goes a long way. Sometimes the magic doesn’t always happen on the first board. If the board didn’t meet your expectations, most shapers would like the opportunity to try and make the next one closer to what you are after.

Rusty presents CHANGES, a surf movie that reflects on the environmental changes of our world. The world is changing and we must pay attention–we can’t ignore it anymore. Follow Josh Kerr, Jamie O’Brien and the Rusty team all over the world doing their piece to make this world a better place. Rusty gives the forks to Global Warming, its all about “Global Cooling”, get on it.

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